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Paray le Monial to Lyon

Day 24 – Paray Le Monial to Écuisses

Before we set off from Paray le Monial, I emailed Rohloff and ask for a recommendation for somewhere in Lyon where we could get a wheel rebuilt. They were really helpful and not only pointed us at an expert but also sent him the free Rohloff flange ring upgrade. We would be in Lyon in four days.

We were not alone! Following the Canal du Centre north-east. It was a very gradual climb over the few days and there were locks at regular intervals all along.
The hottest day of our trip – 42°
Our overnight hotel on the canal near Écuisses. No air conditioning, so the room was pretty warm, but the people were friendly and the food was good.
A quick stop beside the Canal du Centre.

Day 25 – Écuisses to Chalon sur Saône

Écuisses is the high point of the Canal Centre at about 920 feet. Over the day’s ride to Chalon sur Saône we would lose about 400 feet. It was a pleasant enough ride, alternating between towpath and road. On reaching Chalon, we were a bit dismayed to find the place packed, with almost every square inch of riverside grass occupied by tents. There was some huge arts festival taking place and we were lucky to get a pitch on the campsite I had earmarked. It was right at the far end – a bike ride away from the reception and shop! Once set up we rode into town to try and find some food and settled on a sushi bar in one of the quieter streets.

Sushi for a change.
After our sushi we continued into the central square of the old town and managed to get a table for a couple of drinks.

Back at the campsite inside the tent was stifling so we sat outside it for a while, waiting for it to cool, but it never did. Later in the night there was a huge thunderstorm and the lightning came pretty close to where we were, setting off a few screams from nearby tents.

Day 26 – Chalon Sur Saône to Uchizy

Our day was relatively short at under 30 miles so we reached the campsite fairly early. Plenty of time to enjoy at drink at the bar and book a table for the evening (the restaurant was popular with local residents as I don’t think there was much else nearby).
Later, storm clouds gathered and as we sat at a covered patio it blew through. Table cloths needed holding down, and some of the gazebos outside caravans were blown over and had to be rescued before ending up in the river. As quickly as it came, it went and the rest of the evening was ok.

Day 27 – Uchizy to Montmerle sur Saône

Some overnight rain meant a slightly damp start
Swans on the Saône
Another blood sugar stop
Some of the riverside tracks were a bit too rough, so we bailed out and used the local roads where we could.

At Montmerle just before we reached the campsite we passed a small cabin and seating area where food was being served so pitched the tent and walked back only to find it was closing up. With nothing else nearby we decided to walk into town and no sooner than we set off, it started to rain. By the time we got into the town centre and found a bar, we were both soaked to the skin. The only food seemed to be a pizza place almost opposite but not open until later, so we sat and dripped for an hour or so, then wandered over the road to eat. Not ideal for Karon, she ate the topping but left the dough.

Day 28 – Montmerle sur Saône to Lyon

It was wet for much of the night and still raining next morning, so I moved the bike and bags under an elevated wash block (on stilts because of floods I presume). It was the perfect place to set up the stove and chairs for a brew, then pack the sleeping stuff and tent while keeping most of it dry. As we set off it stopped raining thankfully.

Crossing the river at Trévoux after climbing over the high ground rather than following the river on a long bend.
I’d like to think it saved us time.
Lunch stop at Collonges-au-mont-d’or.

The approaches to Lyon were very hilly and the river was continually squeezed on one bank or both by high ground. It meant in some places there was no space for a separate cycle path. Looking at the height profile, there was a huge lump to get over just before we reached the city, but some kind souls had cut a tunnel through the rock and laid a good two-way cycle path and a wide path for pedestrians…no cars 🙂

I had booked a hotel for four nights just in case there were more delays to repairing the wheel and it was as near to the bike shop as I could find. I had arranged to be at the shop at 08:30 the next morning.

Karon glued to the box after a month of abstinence.
Late afternoon in Lyon on our first night. We wandered the surrounding area and found an interesting ‘table’ to sit at for a couple of drinks.

Next morning I left Karon for a lie-in and rode to ‘Cycles D. Guédon, not too far away.
M. Guédon was waiting for me and set about the dismantling and rebuild of the wheel straight away. At the back of the shop was a small courtyard and large workshop, a veritable Aladdin’s cave. In less than an hour the bike was reshod with a nice new rear rim and spokes.

With the bike sorted we had the remainder of our time to explore the city…
The Basilica. We cycled some of the way up, but had to walk a section in the middle. Too steep even without all the bags and trailer.
View over Lyon from the Basilica. Our hotel was near the high risers.
Inside the Basilica.
The Roman amphitheatre.
The confluence of the Rhône, left and the Saône, right. The following day we would be heading down the Rhône.

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